How to Build a Computer That’s Fast, Reliable & Upgradeable

Building a computer isn’t just about slapping parts in a case. It requires proper planning for real performance.

Getting started? Think about what you’ll actually use the computer for. Gaming rigs need strong GPUs, while work machines might prioritise CPU power and RAM instead.

Compatibility matters heaps. Not all motherboards work with every CPU, and RAM speeds must match what your system supports. Check those specs carefully before buying anything!

We see compatibility issues constantly. Frustrating.

Components to prioritise (1):

Quality power supply (don’t skimp here)
CPU and motherboard combo
Sufficient RAM (16GB minimum nowadays)
Storage solution (SSD for speed, HDD for bulk)
Proper cooling solutions

Cable management isn’t just for looks. Good airflow prevents overheating and extends component life. Route cables neatly away from fans.

Once everything’s connected, your system might not boot at first go. But don’t panic. Most issues are simple fixes like unseated RAM or loose power connections.

Remember to install your operating system and drivers properly. And back up regularly once youre up and running.

Building computers feels awesome when done right. Worth the effort!

Key Takeaways on Building a Computer

Plan your build based on actual needs not just fancy specs
Choose components that work together properly
Cable management seriously affects system performance
Quality cooling prevents expensive failures down the track

Planning Your PC Build

Look, planning a PC isn’t the fun bit – we all just wanna get our hands on the shiny parts. But trust me on this one.

I built three systems last year without proper planning. Big mistake. Ended up with a GPU that barely fit in the case and cooling that couldn’t keep up. Nightmare.

What are ya actually gonna use this thing for? Gaming needs grunt in different places than video editing. And those AI workloads? Totally different ballgame.

Your CPU choice basically sets the tone for everything else. AMD or Intel? Both make good gear these days. Then there’s graphics cards… prices are finally coming down a bit, thank god.

Budget wise, anything under $1200 means compromises somewhere. That’s just reality. Mid-range builds around $1800 hit the sweet spot for most people. The high-end stuff? Yeah nice if you can afford it.

Components to think about:

Motherboard (boring but critical)
RAM (16GB absolute minimum)
Storage (get an SSD, seriously)
PSU (cheap ones can literally catch fire)
Case (bigger is usually easier to build in)

The compatibility stuff does my head in. Not everything works together nicely. Like, some RAM won’t run at full speed with certain CPUs. And those fancy new processors might need BIOS updates before they even work.

Something people forget is noise. A powerful system running hot with cheap fans sounds like a vacuum cleaner. Not ideal if it’s sitting next to you all day.

And cooling matters heaps more than most people think. Especially in our climate. Your fancy expensive parts throttle themselves when they get too hot. What a waste.

But yeah. Plan first. Research. Then buy the fun stuff.

Build a Computer- Picking the Right PC Parts

Let’s face it, building a computer can be overwhelming. So many parts, specs, and compatibility issues to worry about. But don’t stress. Breaking it down makes it easier.

The Heart of Your System

Your CPU and motherboard form the foundation of everything else. They’re like a marriage, these two. Gotta be compatible.

Intel or AMD? Both make quality processors these days. Intel typically edges out in gaming performance while AMD offers better value for multicore workloads. Your choice really depends on what you’ll be doing.

For gaming and everyday use, 6 cores is plenty. Content creation? Maybe look at 8 or more cores. Clock speeds matter too. Higher numbers mean snappier performance in single-threaded applications.

The motherboard needs to match your CPU socket type. Easy mistake to make. B550 boards won’t work with Intel chips, and Z690 boards won’t accept AMD processors. Simple as that.

When choosing a motherboard, think about what features you actually need:

How many RAM slots do you want?
Need lots of USB ports?
Planning to overclock?
Want the latest PCIe 4.0 or 5.0 support?

Size matters too. ATX boards give you more expansion options but require bigger cases. mATX and ITX boards are perfect for compact builds. Compromise on expansion, gain on desk space.

Memory and Storage

RAM is pretty straightforward. For most users, 16GB is the sweet spot. Gamers and content creators should consider 32GB. Anything more is specialist territory.

Speed ratings like 3200MHz or 3600MHz actually matter. Especially for AMD systems. The performance difference between slow and fast RAM can be noticeable in everyday tasks.

And always go dual channel. Two sticks instead of one. Trust me on this.

Storage is where things get interesting. SSDs have gotten cheap enough that there’s no excuse not to use one for your operating system. The difference between an SSD and HDD for Windows is night and day. Seriously. Life changing.

M.2 NVMe drives are even faster but come at a premium. Worth it if you move large files around regularly. Video editors, 3D artists, you know who you are.

For bulk storage though, traditional hard drives still make sense. Photos, videos, game libraries that you don’t play often. Store that stuff on a big, cheap HDD.

Graphics and Power

GPUs are bloody expensive these days. No way around it. But they’re essential for gaming and many creative applications. (2)

For casual gaming at 1080p, mid-range cards like the RTX 3060 or Radeon 6600 will do you fine. Want 1440p or 4K? Prepare your wallet accordingly.

VRAM is becoming increasingly important. 8GB is the bare minimum these days, with 12GB or 16GB offering more futureproofing.

Your power supply needs to handle everything you throw at it. And not just barely. Give yourself some headroom. A system that needs 500W should have at least a 650W PSU. Quality matters here more than in almost any other component. A dodgy power supply can take out other parts when it fails.

Modular PSUs cost more but make cable management so much easier. Worth the extra dollars if you care about a clean build.

Cooling and Cases

Stock CPU coolers are… adequate. Just. They’ll prevent thermal throttling in most situations. But aftermarket coolers run quieter and allow your CPU to boost higher for longer.

Air coolers are simple and reliable. But AIO liquid coolers look flash and can perform better in some situations. Your choice really.

Cases seem simple but they’re actually crucial for airflow. Mesh front panels might not look as sleek as glass, but they keep your components cooler. And cooler components last longer and perform better.

Size-wise, mid towers fit most builds comfortably. Full towers are massive overkill unless you’re running multiple GPUs or tons of storage. And small form factor cases are brilliant for space saving but challenging to build in.

Don’t forget about noise. Some cases have better sound dampening than others. Makes a big difference if your PC sits on your desk rather than underneath it.

The best advice? Take your time choosing parts. Research compatibility. And enjoy the building process. It’s a proper rewarding experience when everything comes together and boots first go.

Putting It All Together: The PC Building Bit

Prep Work: Getting Your Workspace Sorted

Right, so you’ve bought all your parts. They’re sitting there in their boxes looking properly intimidating. Don’t stress. I’ve stuffed up more builds than I can count and still got there in the end.

Before building your computer, clear a decent space first. Kitchen table works a treat. Avoid carpets if possible, static electricity’s a silent killer of computer parts. And maybe grab a magnetic screwdriver, saves fishing for dropped screws.

First up, grab your case and have a proper look at it. Chuck all the panels off – side panels, front panel, whatever comes off. Makes life way easier. Check for any random bits of packaging inside too. Manufacturers love hiding little bags of screws in weird spots.

Power Supply and Motherboard Prep

The power supply is a good starting point when building a computer. Whack it in the bottom (or top) of the case. Which way should the fan face? Depends on your case really. If there’s vents underneath, face it down to draw cool air from outside. If not, point it inside the case.

Before mounting the motherboard, we should sort the CPU. The CPU bit is where most people get nervous. Fair enough too – it’s the most expensive part that’s easiest to muck up. Gently pull the little lever on the motherboard socket.

Don’t force anything! The CPU should just drop in. Seriously, no pushing. There’s usually a little triangle on one corner of the chip that lines up with the socket. Once it’s sitting flat, just close the lever back down. Job done.

RAM and Motherboard Installation

For the RAM, you actually need to push harder than you think. Feels wrong, but that’s how it is. Line up the notch so you can’t put it in backwards.

Push until those clips on the ends snap into place. If you’re only using two sticks and have four slots, check your manual for which ones to use. Usually it’s slots 2 and 4 for some bizarre reason.

The motherboard’s a bit fiddly. Make sure those little standoff screws are in the right spots in your case first. Don’t skip this or you’ll short out your board! And don’t forget that I/O shield at the back – absolute classic rookie error to remember it after everything else is installed. Been there.

Storage and Graphics Card

Storage drives are pretty straightforward. SSDs hardly weigh anything so a couple of screws will do. Hard drives need to be more secure since they’ve got moving parts. Some cases have these fancy tool-less drive bays now, but honestly I prefer just using the screws.

GPU time! This is the exciting bit. Take out the expansion slot covers at the back of the case first. The card should click nicely into the top PCIe slot. Some of the bigger cards need a bit of wiggling to line up. Don’t forget to connect the power cables if your card needs them. Those 8-pin or 6-pin connectors from the power supply.

Cable Management: The Nightmare Section

Cabling is where most builds start looking proper messy. Take your time here, it makes a massive difference. Not just for looks either – good airflow needs clear paths. (3)

Start with these important connections:

Big 24-pin motherboard power connector
CPU power (usually top left of the motherboard)
SATA cables for drives
Front panel USB and audio

Those bloody front panel connectors are the worst. Tiny little plugs for power button, reset, LEDs and whatnot. The motherboard manual is your best mate here. Every board seems to have a different layout.

Try routing cables behind the motherboard tray if your case allows it. Makes everything look cleaner and improves airflow. Some builders go nuts with cable ties, but honestly just keeping things neat is good enough.

Before You Power Up: The Triple-Check

Before you hit the power button, double check everything:

All power cables connected? CPU and motherboard especially
RAM properly seated?
GPU secure and powered?
CPU cooler attached correctly with thermal paste?
No loose screws sitting on the motherboard?

First boot is always a bit nerve-wracking. If nothing happens, don’t panic. 90% of the time it’s just something not plugged in properly. Check the front panel connectors first, then make sure the power supply switch is actually on (embarrassing but common mistake).

Booting Up For The First Time

If fans spin up, you’re on the right track! You might not get a display immediately, and that’s normal. Sometimes it takes a minute for everything to initialize.

You’ll need to get into the BIOS first to make sure everything’s detected properly. Usually that means pressing Delete or F2 during startup, but it varies between motherboards.

Check that your RAM is running at the right speed – most systems default to slower settings until you enable the XMP/DOCP profile. And make sure all your drives are showing up.

I’ve found building a computer is like riding a bike. First time is terrifying, second time is still scary, but by the third one you’re wondering what all the fuss was about. And there’s something properly satisfying about using a computer you’ve built yourself. Even if it gave you a few grey hairs along the way.

Getting Your PC Up and Running: The Software Bit

So you’ve built your computer. It looks beautiful. But right now it’s just an expensive paperweight until we sort the software side of things.

Operating System: The Foundation

First up, you’ll need a bootable USB stick with your OS of choice. Windows is the obvious pick for most, but Linux has gotten pretty user friendly these days.

Creating that bootable drive is dead simple now:

For Windows, grab the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft’s website
For Linux, tools like Rufus or Etcher make it a breeze

Boot from the USB by mashing F12, Delete, or whatever key your motherboard uses during startup. This gets you into the boot menu. Select your USB drive and follow the prompts.

When picking which drive to install to, make sure you choose your SSD if you’ve got multiple storage drives. Nothing worse than accidentally installing Windows on your slow backup drive. Been there.

BIOS and Drivers: The Boring But Critical Stuff

Your computer should work after OS installation, but probably not well. Time to sort the drivers.

First, check if your BIOS needs updating. Manufacturers often release updates that fix stability issues or add support for newer components. But honestly, if everything’s working fine, sometimes it’s best not to touch it. If it ain’t broke and all that.

For drivers, focus on these first:

Chipset drivers (from your motherboard manufacturer)
Graphics drivers (NVIDIA or AMD website, not the CD)
Network and audio drivers if they’re not working properly

Windows Update actually does a decent job with basic drivers these days. But for gaming or professional work, grab the proper ones from manufacturer websites.

And do yourself a favour, check that your RAM is running at the speed you paid for. Many systems default to slower settings. Quick trip to BIOS to enable XMP or DOCP will fix that.

When Things Go Wrong: Sorting Problems in Building a Computer

So you’ve hit the power button and… nothing. Or maybe something, but not what you wanted. Don’t panic. Happens to everyone.

No Signs of Life?

First, check the basics. Is the power supply switched on at the wall? Is the cable properly connected? Sometimes it’s the simplest things.

If you’re getting absolutely nothing, not even fans spinning, suspect the front panel connections. Those tiny little plugs from the case to the motherboard are easy to get wrong. Double check them against your motherboard manual.

Other common culprits:

RAM not seated properly
CPU power cable forgotten
Motherboard not properly secured, causing a short

Try disconnecting everything non essential. Just motherboard, CPU, one stick of RAM and power supply. See if it at least shows signs of life.

It Lives But Won’t Boot

Getting power but no display? Check your monitor is actually on and connected to the GPU, not the motherboard. Rookie mistake that.

If your system powers on then immediately off, you’ve likely got a short somewhere or an incompatible component. Check all your power connections again.

Getting to BIOS but can’t find your boot drive? Make sure SATA cables are properly connected and the drive is showing up in BIOS. You might need to change from RAID to AHCI mode in some cases.

Testing Your New Beast

Once everything’s up and running, time to make sure it’s performing as expected. Run a few benchmarks to stress test and verify everything.

Cinebench is brilliant for testing CPU performance. Heaven or 3DMark for graphics. CrystalDiskMark for storage speeds.

But monitoring temps is just as important as performance numbers. HWiNFO or MSI Afterburner will show you if anything’s running too hot. CPU shouldn’t exceed 85°C under full load. GPUs can run a bit hotter, but still ideally below 90°C.

Weird crashes during testing? Could be unstable RAM. Try running at default speeds before enabling XMP. Or maybe your power supply isn’t up to the task. Cutting corners there always comes back to bite you.

Building a Computer: Upgrades and Regular Care

Most people forget their computer needs love too. Just a bit of regular maintenance keeps things running sweet for years.

Dust is the silent killer of PC performance. Seriously. Give your machine a good clean every few months, especially if you’ve got pets. Compressed air is your best mate here. Blow out those fans, heatsinks, and dust filters. Your temps will thank you. And so will your expensive parts that won’t need replacing nearly as quickly.

But software needs attention too. Windows loves to bloat itself over time. Clean out your startup programs, check what’s hogging resources in Task Manager. And for crying out loud, update your drivers occasionally. Not every week, mind you. If it’s working fine, sometimes best to leave graphics drivers alone.

When it comes to actually upgrading components, start with the easy wins:

Adding more RAM is usually dead simple
Extra storage drives are a no brainer
New graphics card makes the biggest performance difference for gaming

Just remember to check compatibility. Your power supply has limits. That fancy new GPU might need more juice than you’ve got available.

And what about that CPU cooler you cheaped out on initially? Might be time for an upgrade if your temps are getting toasty. Better cooling often means better performance since modern processors will boost higher when they’re running cooler.

The beauty of a desktop is you don’t have to replace the whole thing at once. Incremental upgrades. Smart ones get you the most bang for buck. Keep the dust out, drivers fresh, and you’ll be laughing.

When to Call in the Cavalry: PC Build Help

Let’s be honest. Sometimes things go pear shaped with a PC build. You’ve tried everything, watched all the YouTube tutorials, and that thing still won’t cooperate.

There’s no shame in asking for help. Seriously. Even veteran builders hit walls sometimes with tricky problems like:

Random system crashes that defy explanation
Boot loops that make you question your sanity
BIOS settings that might as well be written in hieroglyphics
Weird noises coming from components that definitely shouldn’t be making noise

DIY troubleshooting is great until it isn’t. When you’ve spent more hours diagnosing than actually using your computer, maybe it’s time for reinforcements.

We at Nimble Nerds see this stuff every day in Sydney. Sometimes it’s just a simple fix that was overlooked. Other times it’s something properly technical that needs specialized equipment to diagnose. We love helping fellow PC enthusiasts get their rigs running properly, whether it’s sorting out RAID configurations or tracking down obscure driver conflicts.

The beauty of local support is we can actually see your system in person. No more trying to describe that weird noise over the phone or taking blurry photos of error messages.

And look, trying to fix things yourself first is always worthwhile. Teaches you loads. But when you’re ready to wave the white flag, we’re here to help. No judgement.

How to Build a Computer- Bottom Line

Building your own computer isn’t just about saving a few bucks. It’s about creating something that perfectly fits what you need. No compromises.

When you’ve done it right, the system just works. Quiet. Powerful. Reliable. And unlike those pre built jobs, yours can grow with you. Upgrade path sorted.

But even the best builders hit snags sometimes. That’s where we at Nimble Nerds come in handy. From picking parts to troubleshooting weird issues that make no sense, we’ve seen it all before.

The satisfaction of pressing that power button and watching your creation spring to life though? Unbeatable feeling. Worth every frustrating moment along the way.

Need a hand with building your computer? Give us a bell at Nimble Nerds. We’re just as passionate about these machines as you are.

FAQs on Building a Computer

Why do some PC builders test their components outside the case first?

Testing your new pc components before putting them in your pc case can save loads of time if something isn’t working right. You can set up the motherboard on its box with just the power supply unit, the CPU with its cooler, one memory stick in the ram slots, and the graphics processing unit plugged in.

This way, if your new computer doesn’t boot up, you know it’s one of these main parts causing trouble, not the tiny screws or attached cables being wrong. It’s much easier to swap parts and check connections on an open setup than inside a case with all the other components installed. Many experienced pc builders call this a “post test” and reckon it’s saved them hours of trouble finding problems after a full build.

How do I pick the right PC case if I want to use machine learning or high end gaming later?

Choosing your pc case isn’t just about looking cool with a tempered glass side panel! For machine learning or high end gaming, you need to think about future upgrades and cooling. Get a case with extra space for a big graphics processing unit (or two), since these cards are massive these days. Check that there’s room for more storage space and extra ram kits down the track.

Good airflow is super important for demanding games and machine learning tasks, so look for cases with spots for lots of fans. Also make sure the case fits your size motherboard properly – check if it supports ATX, micro-ATX or whatever you’ve got. Cooler Master and other good brands usually list what motherboard sizes work with each case on their websites.

What should I do if the pre-applied thermal paste on my CPU cooler looks dry or funny?

If the pre-applied thermal paste on your CPU cooler looks cracked, dried out or not covering the whole contact area, don’t risk it! This paste helps move heat between your CPU and the cooler’s mounting bracket. Bad paste means your computer might shut down during demanding games or even simple tasks.

You can carefully clean off the old paste with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, then put on new paste. Make a small pea-sized blob in the middle of the CPU before attaching the cooler – don’t spread it yourself, the pressure from the cooler will do that job. Some builders reckon even fresh pre-applied paste isn’t as good as applying your own, but that’s personal preference really.

Why do some motherboards have the memory slots in different colours?

Different coloured memory slots on your motherboard aren’t just for looks – they actually show you the correct configuration for your ram kits! This is about your pc’s short term memory working best. Most motherboards with four ram slots use what’s called “dual channel” setup, where matching pairs of random access memory sticks work together.

If you only have two ram sticks but four slots, you shouldn’t just put them in any slots – check the user manual for your motherboard’s chipset to see the right spots. Usually, it’s either slots 1 and 3 OR 2 and 4. Getting this wrong won’t break anything, but you might lose some speed. Even boards with just two ram slots sometimes have this channel business, but obviously there’s only one way to install them then!

How can I avoid bending or breaking the small metal lever when installing a CPU?

That small metal lever on the socket tray is one of the most fragile and scary parts when building your own pc! To avoid damaging it, make sure the lever is fully open before trying to place your CPU. Look carefully at the socket and the bottom of your processor – there are little markers (usually a triangle or dot) showing which way it goes. The CPU should drop in without any pushing – it uses gravity, not force. If you need to push, something’s not lined up right!

Once the processor is sitting flat in the socket, hold it gently with one finger while slowly closing the lever. It will need some pressure at the end to lock, and might make a scary crunching sound, but that’s normal. Many sensitive components get damaged by people using too much force here.

Does it matter which way up I install my semi modular power supply in the case?

Yep, it actually does matter if your psu goes upside down or right-side up in your custom pc! Most modern cases have a spot at the bottom for the power supply unit with a vent underneath. If your case sits on a hard surface with good clearance, you should point the power supply fan downward so it pulls in fresh air from outside the case.

But if your case sits on carpet or has no bottom vent, flip it so the fan points inside to get air. Semi modular power supply units are great because you only plug in the cables you need, making your gaming setup cleaner. Just make sure all the screw holes line up properly when mounting it. A loose power supply can rattle around and damage components or even disconnect while your computer is running!

Can I build a gaming PC that does ray tracing without spending heaps of money?

Ray tracing looks amazing in games but doesn’t have to break the bank for your gaming pc! While top price points are scary, there are cheaper graphics cards that can handle some ray tracing for light gaming. The lower-end NVIDIA RTX cards or AMD cards with ray tracing can give you decent results without selling a kidney.

If you’re really watching your dollars, you could start with integrated graphics on your CPU for basic gaming, then save up for a proper graphics card later. Just make sure your motherboard inside has the right horizontal slot (PCIe) for future upgrades, and enough hdmi ports for your monitors. When building for ray tracing on a budget, pick components that balance well together – no point having a monster graphics card if your CPU can’t keep up for smooth performance!

Do I really need an anti static wrist strap, or is that just for nervous builders?

The anti static wrist strap isn’t just for nervous new builders – it’s cheap insurance for your expensive gaming setup! Static electricity is invisible but can damage components without you ever knowing it happened. While many experienced pc builders just touch the metal case occasionally to ground themselves, the strap gives constant protection. When you’re handling a graphics card that costs hundreds of dollars, a $10 strap seems pretty reasonable!

You attach one end to something metal and grounded (like your case), and the other goes around your wrist. This creates a safe path for any static to follow instead of zapping through your motherboard or other sensitive bits. If you’re building in a dry environment or on carpet, it’s even more important. A Phillips head screwdriver with a rubber handle can also help reduce static risks when installing all the components.